Christmas came early for high-end watch enthusiasts with renowned watchmaker Patek Philippe dropping eight new watch models including five chronographs, a pair of fancy gem-set sports models, and a precious metal successor to the recently discontinued 5711.
Some of these new releases were familiar and expected while others were novel and surprising, to say the least. Let’s delve into all the latest Patek Philippe releases to discover what they have to offer.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5811/1G-001
Among Patek’s latest models, the most talked-about is, hands down, the Nautilus 5811/1G, which is the successor to the ultra-sought-after Nautilus 5711 that the company discontinued in January 2022.
At first glance, the new 5811 and the older 5711 look identical, featuring the porthole-shaped cases, rounded octagonal bezels, integrated bracelets, and blue/black horizontally embossed dials that are characteristic of the Nautilus watch. What’s more, the sapphire caseback, water-resistance rating of 120 meters, and the Caliber 26-330 S C remains. However, there are a few notable differences to point out.
First, the Nautilus 5811/1G sports a 41mm white gold case, which is 1mm larger (and significantly heavier thanks to the material) than the steel Nautilus 5711/1A. (Quick side note, in Patek parlance, “G” is shorthand for white gold and “A” stands for stainless steel).
Furthermore, unlike the 5711’s three-part case construction, the 5811 is built with a two-part case – a nod to the “monobloc” case of the original Nautilus 3700 from the 1970s. To facilitate taking the movement in and out of the two-part case, Patek devised a new pull-out piece lever system that allows the winding stem to be removed from the dial side.
Finally, new to the Nautilus 5118’s white gold bracelet is an updated fold-over clasp with a new lockable adjustment system that allows easy lengthening of the bracelet by two or four millimeters.
Retail Price: $69,790
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A-011
The 5711 wasn’t the only Nautilus that we had to bid farewell to recently – the 5990/1A Travel Time Chronograph was also dropped from the Patek catalog. Or so we thought!
Patek has revived the Nautilus 5990/1A Travel Time Chronograph, complete with the familiar 41.5mm stainless steel case but this time rather than a gray dial, it’s furnished with a new sunburst blue dial with black gradation. The steel integrated bracelet also features the patented adjustable clasp. Other details remain the same, such as the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS that drives the flyback chronograph, two time zones (each with its own day/night indication), and date, and time functions of the watch.
Retail Price: $68,600
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1R-001
Next up is a new version of the beloved Nautilus 5712, now dressed entirely in 18k rose gold from its 40mm case to its integrated bracelet. The rose gold bracelet also benefits from the new patented fold-over clasp with the lockable adjustment system.
The charmingly off-centered date and moon phases, running seconds, and power-reserve subdials of the Nautilus 5712/1R-001 sit on a beautiful brown sunburst dial, which darkens towards the periphery. The back of the watch allows a view of the Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU self-winding movement.
Yes, Patek has made a rose gold 5712 before, but paired with a leather strap and a darker brown-black dial; this new rosier version is a welcome addition to the lineup.
Retail Price: $82,800
Patek Philippe Nautilus 7118/1300R-001
The men’s Nautilus range was not the only one to welcome new models; Patek also introduced a new ladies’ Nautilus in the form of the ref. 7118/1300R-001.
Featuring a 35.2mm rose gold case and matching rose gold integrated bracelet, the Nautilus 7118/1300R shines even more thanks to a bezel that’s set with 68 baguette-cut spessartite gemstones (from the garnet family) in cognac and champagne tones. We’ll drink to that! The rose-gilt waves-patterned dial is also home to 11 ogival-shaped cognac-colored spessartite hour markers, joined by a date window at 6 o’clock. Inside the case is the automatic Caliber 324 S C movement, which is of course visible via the sapphire caseback.
Patek may classify this as a women’s watch but we’re pretty sure this gem-set midsized Nautilus will find its way on the wrists (or at least waitlists) of many men too.
Retail Price: $82,800
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 7968/300R-001
Continuing with the theme of gem-set Patek sports watches, feast your eyes on the new Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph, a.k.a. reference 7968-300R-001. This colorful and sparkly number features a 39.9mm rose gold case embellished with not one but two rows of precious gemstones on the bezel: 40 multicolored sapphires and 40 diamonds.
Naturally, the sparkling spectacle continues to the mother-of-pearl dial with a dozen skittle-toned sapphires serving as hour markers. Oh, and Patek added 10 diamonds to the rose gold fold-over clasp for good measure.
Gorgeous gems aside, this is the first time Patek Philippe has made a chronograph version of the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection – and it’s a self-winding flyback chronograph one at that, powered by Caliber CH 28‑520.
A watch with this much punch deserves to be paired with more than just one rubber strap, so Patek delivers the Aquanaut 7968-300R-001 with three of them in red, beige, and white.
Retail Price: $212,900
Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph 5935A-001
Fans of Patek Philippe watches will no doubt be familiar with the iconic World Time Flyback Chronograph given that it’s one of the most desirable models made by the brand. And now, Patek has just upped the ante with a stainless steel version (a first for the model), combined with a striking salmon dial decorated with a carbon motif in the center. The 41mm case is paired with a grained taupe calfskin strap but the package comes with an additional strap in beige with a nubuck finish.
Like all preceding versions, this steel Patek Philippe reference 5935A seamlessly marries a world time function that indicates the time in 24 time zones with a flyback chronograph in one easy-to-use and stunning-to-look-at watch. The movement in charge is the automatic Caliber CH 28‑520 HU.
Retail Price: $63,870
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5204G-001
Not only does Patek now offer the classic 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (originally launched in 2012) in white gold but also, in the very on-trend green colorway. The 40mm white gold case of the reference 5204G-001 is home to an olive green sunburst dial, which matches the shiny olive green hand-stitched calfskin strap beautifully.
Wearers can choose to hide the manually wound Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS Q movement with a solid white gold caseback or show it off with the interchangeable sapphire crystal caseback.
Retail Price: On request
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, 5373P-001
The most surprising release of Patek’s big 2022 drop is the reference 5373P-001, which is a split-seconds monopusher chronograph combined with a perpetual calendar for left-handers. This is the first left-hander chronograph in Patek Philippe’s recent history, so let’s unpack the new orientation, which is essentially the inverse of the previous-generation ref. 5372P.
First, the watch’s 38.3mm platinum case has chronograph pushers on the left side rather than the right. Easy enough. But look at the sleek charcoal-colored dial with red accents and you’ll soon see that everything is flipped – the moonphase was moved to the to top, trading places with the date subdial, the 60-minute counter switched with the running seconds, and the day/night and leap year indicators repositioned diagonally. Patek essentially rotated Caliber CHR 27‑525 PS Q ( the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar ever built) by 180 degrees, and everything else followed.
Even the diamond set into the case in between the lugs, which is traditional for platinum Pateks, has moved from its customary 6 o’clock position to 12 o’clock.
Retail Price: On request
There you have it, a rundown of all of Patek Philippe’s new releases for the last stretch of 2022. While opinions will vary about these latest drops, what isn’t up for debate is that every one of these Pateks will sell out before they even land in boutiques.